Competition Rules & Scoring
Contents
1. Boulder Rules
2. Roped Rules
3. Ties and Countback Rules
4. Overall Series Scoring Rules
Boulder Rules
Each MY Series boulder round gives you 2 hours to try up to 8 boulders, with a maximum of 5 attempts per boulder. You can attempt the boulders in any order, take breaks when you need them, and climb with a group of friends or make your way around independently. Before each climb, hand your scorecard to the judge and take a moment to check the starting holds, which are marked with four tags. To begin, you must have both hands and both feet on the designated starting holds and show control before moving.
You can use all of the same coloured holds, volumes and wall features unless marked as out-of-bounds with black tape. Each attempt lasts a maximum of 4 minutes and ends when you return to the matting, break a rule, run out of time or complete the boulder. To earn a top, you should touch the designated finishing hold with both hands and show control. You should wait for the judge to confirm your top before climbing down.
Points are awarded for controlling holds as you climb, with higher holds worth more. Each scoring hold is worth points, starting at 59 points for the top hold and decreasing by 2 points for each hold below it. An additional point in-between scoring holds can be earned for making a positive movement in the direction of the next hold. Successfully topping a boulder with both hands in control earns 60 points, plus a bonus depending on how many attempts it took: 4 bonus points for a first-attempt, 3 for a second-attempt, 2 for a third-attempt, 1 for a fourth-attempt, and no bonus for a fifth-attempt top. To be awarded points for a hold, you must demonstrate control by establishing a stable position and weighting the hold. Don't worry if you can't start a boulder - just having an attempt will earn you points for the starting holds!
Our judges are there to help, so please ask them if you're unsure about a starting position or whether something is allowed before you begin. Encouragement from parents and spectators is always welcome, but giving climbers technical instructions during an attempt isn't allowed. After each boulder, check that the judge has recorded your score and signed your card following a top or your final attempt. At the end of your session, hand your completed scorecard in at reception. If you have a concern about a score, speak to the Head Judge immediately after the attempt.
Roped Rules
Each MY Series roped round gives you 4 routes to climb, with 1 attempt on each route. You have a maximum of 6 minutes per route, and your group’s start list will tell you when it’s your turn. Make sure you know who climbs before you and are ready to go when called. U11 and U13 competitors climb on top rope, while all other categories climb on lead. Stay with your assigned group throughout the session, and remember that your judge and belayer are there to help.
You can use all of the same coloured holds, volumes and wall features unless marked as out-of-bounds with black tape. You may start on any holds that you can reach from the ground but once your body has left the ground your attempt has begun. For lead climbers, you must clip every quickdraw in sequence. If you skip a clip or make a Z-clip, your judge or belayer will help you understand how to correct it. You must follow their instructions, and if you cannot correct the error, your attempt will end. Three consecutive backclips will also end your attempt.
Points are awarded for controlling holds as you climb, with higher holds worth more. The top hold is worth 99 points, with each scoring hold below it worth 2 points less than the one above. An additional point can be earned for making a significant positive movement in the direction of the climb; simply reaching for the next hold before falling does not count. To score a hold, you must establish a stable position and weight it, rather than simply touching it. Successfully completing a route earns 100 points: on top rope, you must match the finishing hold with both hands and show control; on lead, you must clip the chains or anchor from any hold on the route. Don't worry if you can't complete a route - you'll still receive points for the highest scoring hold you control, and you won't receive a zero for any attempted route!
Our judges and belayers are there to help, so please ask if you're unsure about a rule before you begin. Encouragement from parents and spectators is welcome, but technical instructions during an attempt aren't allowed. If something happens that puts you at a disadvantage through no fault of your own, such as a spinning or broken hold or rope tightness that impedes your movement, stop and report it immediately to the judge or belayer. The Head Judge will decide whether it qualifies as a technical incident and whether you can re-climb the route. If a re-climb is authorised, your higher score from the two attempts will count.
Ties and Countback Rules
Bear with us! We're overhauling our website. More on ties and countback rules will be added shortly!
Overall Series Scoring Rules
At each MY Series round, competitors earn ranking points based on their finishing position within their age category. The higher you finish, the more ranking points you earn. For example, 1st place earns 100 points, 2nd earns 80 points and 3rd earns 65 points. Ranking points continue down the finishing positions, with 30th place earning 1 point and competitors finishing 31st or lower receiving no ranking points for that round.
Your overall MY Series position is based on your 4 highest-scoring rounds across the season. If you compete in four rounds or fewer, all of your results will count towards your total. This means you can compete in as many or as few rounds as you like, without needing to attend the entire series to be eligible for an overall position.
The scoring system rewards both outstanding performances and consistency throughout the season. With a maximum of 100 ranking points available at each round that counts towards your total, you can achieve up to 400 overall ranking points.
At the final round, the competitors with the highest overall ranking points totals in each category will be announced as the 1st, 2nd and 3rd place overall series winners. They will receive a trophy and a fantastic range of prizes provided by our brilliant sponsors.