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© 2017 by Midland Youth Climbing Series. Proudly created with Wix.com

About MYCS

the series

The MY (Midlands Youth) Climbing Series is a fun event organised by parents of local young climbers and the climbing walls of the Midlands.

The series is a fun, friendly competition for youth climbers age 7 - 17. It is a warm up for the British Youth Climbing Series run by the BMC and gives young climbers the opportunity to experience competitions in a friendly and supportive environment.

***Format changes for 2019-2020*** - Boulder only rounds will consist of 10 problems and will be run in a scramble format. Participants will have an hour to register before their climbing start time and then 2 and a half hours to complete 10 problems. 

Mixed route and problem rounds will retain the format from previous years - there will be three roped routes (top ropes for E and D categories and lead routes for C, B, A and Junior categories) and three boulder problems. Climbers will climb in their groups and have one attempt at each route and up to three attempts at each boulder problem. There will be a maximum of 6 minutes for each route and 3 minutes for each boulder problem.

Some rounds may have a staggered start - so please check the details for each individual round carefully

2019-20 has five rounds - there are certificates and placements for each round and climbers may compete in as many or few rounds as they like - however to be included in the overall series placements, at least four of the five rounds must be entered.

 

The following is a brief summary of the MY Climbing Series Rules. It is intended to help people gain a quick appreciation of the structure and rules of the series and should not be regarded as a replacement for a full understanding of the official rules.

 

RegisTration

The MYCS registration form is now online and can be found here: Registration Form. You only need to complete this form once no matter how many rounds you are entering.

Most of our host walls require competitors and parents to be members of the wall, however, membership fees are usually waived for MYCS climbers. Any specific requirements for individual walls will be detailed on the events page.

For 2019-2020, registration times may vary for different categories, so please check the details of each round carefully.

Each round costs £15 to enter with the entry fee being paid directly to the wall on the day.

 

The Climbers

There are six age categories taking into consideration year of birth; these are the same age categories as for the BMC 2020 Youth Climbing Series, plus the Junior category.

There are separate male and female categories.

In the bouldering only rounds, competitors must complete ten boulder problems

 

In the mixed rounds competitors must complete 3 boulder problems and 3 climbing routes. Groups E and D climb on top ropes with groups C to Junior leading.

The competition is open to anyone with some climbing experience, not just those intending to climb in the BRYCS and competitors can take part in as many rounds as they wish.

All entrants are responsible for providing personal climbing equipment i.e. harness, shoes, chalk bag, helmet. There may be some available from the host wall but remember to check first

Group E

Those born in 2011 or 2012

Group D

Those born in 2009 or 2010

Group C (Lead Climbing)

Those born in 2007 or 2008

Group B (Lead Climbing)

Those born in 2005 or 2006

Group A (Lead Climbing)

Those born in 2003 or 2004

Junior (Lead Climbing)

Those born in 2001 or 2002

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The competition

 

Each event comprises three routes and three boulder problems for each category, apart from "Bouldering Only" rounds which will comprise ten boulder problems and no routes.

 

Mixed route and problem rounds will retain the format from previous years - there will be three roped routes (top ropes for E and D categories and lead routes for C, B, A and Junior categories) and three boulder problems. Climbers will climb in their groups and have one attempt at each route and up to three attempts at each boulder problem. There will be a maximum of 6 minutes for each route and 3 minutes for each boulder problem.

The points for the mixed rounds will remain the same as in previous years. There will be a maximum of 100 points available for routes and up to 62 points available for boulder problems (62 for topping on the first attempt, 61 for second attempt, 60 for third attempt or a number of points depending on how far a climber manages to get)

Boulder only rounds will consist of 10 problems and will be run in a scramble format. Participants will have an hour to register before their climbing start time and then 2 and a half hours to complete 10 problems. There will be a maximum of three minutes to attempt each problem.

 

We tested a new scoring system in round 1, however, following feedback, we have reverted to our previous scoring system for bouldering only rounds. There will be a maximum of five attempts on each problem. If a problem is flashed, 64 points will be awarded, if it is topped on the second attempt 63 points will be awarded, 62 points for a third attempt, 61 points for a fourth attempt and 60 points for a fifth attempt. If the problem is not topped, points will be awarded based on how far the competitor gets into the problem.

Some rounds may have a staggered start - so please check the details for each individual round carefully

Routes MAY be demonstrated, this is at the discretion of the wall and head judge on the day.  Boulder problems will NOT be demonstrated. 

All holds will be marked with tags or tape to aid identification and any special instructions highlighted on the labels next to the climb.

 

Conduct

Each round of the MY Climbing Series is run by volunteers such as parents and local climbers. They are generously supported by the host climbing wall and its staff.

 

Certain regulations (most of which apply equally to competitors, spectators, parents and guardians) help to ensure the smooth running of the event and maintain a good-natured, fun atmosphere: 

 

  • The instructions of the Category Judge and Chief Judge must be followed at all times. 

  • Any disagreement with judging decisions must be taken up with the Chief Judge; NOT the Category Judge. 

  • Unsporting or abusive behaviour at any time will not be tolerated 

  • Climbers must be ready to take their turn on time. 

  • Do not distract or interfere with any competitor who is preparing for, or in the process of attempting, a climb.

 

Prizes

A spot prize 'raffle' will be held at each round.

Certificates are awarded to the top three climbers in each category at each round.

There will be trophies and prizes for the overall winners in each category at the grand final.


Overall ranking for the series will be decided by the ranking points total for each competitor's best three rounds (at least one of which must include a mixed route / boulder round).

 

There will be one Team prize offered; to determine the winning team the scores will be a combined total of the team's top 6 climbers across all categories.


A competitor can only represent one team and this must be clearly indicated on each entry form.

 

Safety

 

Parents are reminded that wearing helmets in competitions may prevent head injuries that may result from a fall or from
being struck by falling objects. Inexperienced climbers should normally wear helmets and even experienced climbers should
consider their actions carefully before deciding not to wear a helmet.

 

Risk and responsibility

Parents and young participants should be aware that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger
of personal injury or death. Parents and participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. The BMC publishes a wide range of publicity and good practice advice
and provides training opportunities for its members.


A parent, or an adult that a parent has arranged to be responsible for their child, must remain at the event to look after their
child.